Today we’re heading to sunny Azerbaijan — a country where cooking has been elevated to an art form, and every dish holds the warmth of the Caspian coast, the fragrance of mountain herbs, and the generosity of ancient soil.
Whole stuffed fish with a nutty filling of walnuts, tart cherry plums, and fragrant spices — a jewel of southern Azerbaijani cuisine. The fish is baked whole until golden and crisp, while inside lies a juicy, sweet-and-sour, spiced filling with the distinctive texture of crushed nuts.
Ingredients (4 servings):
• Whole fish (large sea bass or dorado) — 1.2–1.5 kg
• Walnuts (shelled) — 200 g
• Sour plum paste (tkemali) or pomegranate sauce (narsharab) — 3 tbsp
• Onions — 2 large
• Ground turmeric — 1 tsp
• Ground coriander — 1 tsp
• Sumac — 1 tsp
• Salt — to taste
• Ground black pepper — 0.5 tsp
• Vegetable oil — 3 tbsp
• Lemon — 1 (for serving)
Preparation:
Step 1. Preparing the fish.
Scale the fish, working from tail to head. Make an incision along the belly from the anal fin to the head, then carefully remove the innards. Rinse the cavity thoroughly under cold running water. Pat the fish dry with paper towels, inside and out. Rub the cavity and the surface of the fish with a mixture of salt, turmeric, and black pepper. Leave to marinate for 15–20 minutes at room temperature. Sign of readiness: the fish skin has dried slightly, and the spices evenly cover the surface.
Step 2. Frying the onions.
Dice the onions into 3–4 mm cubes. Heat 2 tbsp of vegetable oil in a frying pan over medium heat until it begins to shimmer lightly. Add the onions and fry for 10–12 minutes, stirring every 2 minutes. Sign of readiness: the onions have turned a deep golden-caramel color, reduced by half in volume, and developed a sweet aroma.
Step 3. Preparing the walnuts.
Place the walnuts in a dry frying pan and toast over medium heat for 3–4 minutes, shaking the pan constantly. Sign of readiness: the nuts have darkened by half a shade and give off an intense nutty aroma. Transfer the walnuts to a mortar or blender and crush them into coarse crumbs — not flour! Pieces measuring 2–3 mm should remain for texture.
Step 4. Making the filling.
Combine the fried onions, crushed walnuts, sour plum paste (or narsharab), ground coriander, and sumac in a bowl. Mix thoroughly with a spoon until all the ingredients are evenly distributed. Taste the filling: it should be sweet-and-sour with a rich nutty depth. Add salt or another spoonful of tart paste if needed. Sign of readiness: the mixture is moist and pliable, easy to shape, and does not crumble apart.
Step 5. Stuffing the fish.
Pack the fish cavity firmly with the filling, distributing it evenly from head to tail. Do not stuff it too tightly — the filling will expand slightly as it bakes. Secure the belly with wooden toothpicks spaced 2 cm apart, or sew it closed with kitchen twine. Sign of readiness: the belly is tightly closed and the filling does not protrude.
Step 6. Baking.
Preheat the oven to 190 °C (convection). Line a baking tray with parchment paper and lightly oil it. Place the fish on the tray and brush the top with the remaining oil. Bake for 35–40 minutes. Halfway through (after 18–20 minutes), carefully turn the fish over with a spatula for even baking. Sign of readiness: the skin is golden-brown and crisp; when pierced with a toothpick at its thickest point, clear juices run out, and the flesh comes easily away from the bone.
Step 7. Serving.
Carefully remove the toothpicks or twine. Transfer the fish to a large oval platter. Slice the lemon into thin 2 mm half-moons and arrange them around the fish. Serve hot, cutting crosswise into portions — so that the nut filling is visible in every piece.
💡 Fact: Lavangi is the calling card of the Lankaran region in southern Azerbaijan. Traditionally, the dish was made with Caspian kutum, a fish from the carp family, while the filling was prepared exclusively with wild cherry plums gathered in the mountain forests of the Talysh Mountains. In 2023, lavangi was included on UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage.
Lamb offal fried until crisp — liver, heart, lungs, and fat-tail fat — with potatoes and fresh herbs. This vivid, fragrant dish, smoky and with a crisp crust outside and a tender texture within, is served hot straight from the pan.
Ingredients (4 servings):
• Lamb liver — 300 g
• Lamb heart — 200 g
• Fat-tail sheep fat (or clarified butter) — 100 g
• Potatoes — 3 medium
• Onions — 2
• Tomatoes — 2 medium
• Bell pepper — 1
• Ground turmeric — 0.5 tsp
• Ground cumin — 0.5 tsp
• Salt — to taste
• Ground black pepper — 0.5 tsp
• Fresh cilantro — 1 bunch (30 g)
• Fresh basil (reyhan) — 1 bunch (20 g)
• Sumac — for serving
Preparation:
Step 1. Preparing the offal.
Rinse the liver in cold water, removing the membranes and bile ducts. Cut it into cubes measuring 2–2.5 cm. Slice the heart in half lengthwise, cut out the sinews and vessels inside, and rinse away any blood clots. Cut into pieces the same size as the liver. Soak all the offal in cold salted water for 20 minutes to remove any remaining blood. Then drain in a colander and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Sign of readiness: the pieces are dry to the touch, with no water dripping from them — this is critical for a crisp crust when frying.
Step 2. Preparing the vegetables.
Peel the potatoes and cut them into batons 5 cm long and 1×1 cm thick, as for homemade fries. Slice the onions into 3 mm half-rings. Dice the tomatoes into 1.5 cm cubes. Remove the seeds from the bell pepper and cut it into strips 1 cm wide and 4–5 cm long. Roughly chop the cilantro and basil.
Step 3. Rendering the fat-tail fat.
Cut the fat-tail fat into 1 cm cubes. Place it in a deep cast-iron frying pan or cauldron and set over medium heat. Render for 7–10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Sign of readiness: the cracklings are golden and crisp, while the fat is clear and plentiful. Scoop out the cracklings with a slotted spoon — they can be served separately as a snack or added at the end.
Step 4. Frying the potatoes.
Place the potato batons in the rendered fat-tail fat, or heated clarified butter, in a single layer. Fry over medium-high heat without stirring for the first 3 minutes, so a crust can form. Then carefully turn them over and fry for another 7–8 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally. Sign of readiness: the potatoes are golden on all sides and soft inside when pierced with a toothpick. Transfer the potatoes to a plate lined with paper towel.
Step 5. Frying the offal.
Add the heart to the same frying pan, adding a little more fat if necessary — it is tougher and needs more time. Fry over high heat for 4–5 minutes, stirring every minute. Then add the liver and fry for another 3–4 minutes. Do not overcook the liver — it will turn rubbery! Add the turmeric and cumin, then stir. Sign of readiness: the pieces have developed a dark brown crust, but the liver remains slightly pink inside when cut.
Step 6. Bringing the components together.
Add the onion half-rings to the offal. Fry for 3 minutes, until the onions turn translucent. Add the bell pepper and tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Stir and braise over medium heat for 3–4 minutes. Return the potatoes to the pan and mix carefully, trying not to break the batons. Heat everything together for 2 minutes. Sign of readiness: the tomatoes have softened and released their juices, every component is coated in spicy sauce, and the aromas of cumin and turmeric are bright and distinct.
Step 7. Serving.
Remove the pan from the heat. Sprinkle generously with chopped cilantro and basil. Serve directly in the pan, or pile onto a large platter. Set out a small bowl of sumac beside it — each guest can sprinkle on as much as they like. The perfect accompaniment is fresh tandoor bread or lavash.
💡 Fact: The name “jiz-biz” is onomatopoeic: it imitates the sizzling sound offal makes when it hits a scorching-hot pan of fat-tail fat. In Baku, this dish is considered classic street food and is traditionally cooked over an open fire in markets and bazaars.
Exquisite Eastern pastry in the shape of a crescent, made from thin, buttery dough and filled with ground almonds, sugar, and cardamom. Shekerbura is decorated with an intricate pattern using special pincers — each one looks like a work of art. In taste: crisp on the outside, crumbly and fragrant within.
Ingredients (20–25 pieces):
Dough:
• Wheat flour — 500 g
• Butter (softened) — 150 g
• Chicken egg — 1
• Sour cream (20 % fat) — 3 tbsp
• Warm milk — 100 ml
• Dry yeast — 5 g
• Sugar — 1 tbsp
• A pinch of salt
Filling:
• Almonds (blanched) — 250 g
• Sugar — 150 g
• Ground cardamom — 1 tsp
• Vanilla sugar — 1 packet (8 g)
For decoration:
• Egg yolk — 1 (for brushing)
Preparation:
Step 1. Making the dough.
Dissolve the dry yeast and 1 tbsp of sugar in warm milk (35–37 °C — pleasantly warm to the touch). Leave for 10 minutes. Sign of activation: a foamy cap 1–1.5 cm high has formed on the surface. In a deep bowl, combine the sifted flour and a pinch of salt. Add the softened butter and rub it in with your hands until fine crumbs form. Pour in the yeast mixture, add the egg and sour cream. Knead the dough — work it for 8–10 minutes until smooth. Sign of readiness: the dough is soft and elastic, does not stick to your hands, and an indentation made with a finger slowly springs back. Cover with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place for 1 hour.
Step 2. Preparing the almonds.
Cover the almonds with boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain and remove the skins — they will slip off easily when pressed between your fingers. Spread the blanched almonds on a baking tray and dry them in the oven at 160 °C for 8–10 minutes, stirring once halfway through. Sign of readiness: the almonds are lightly golden and give off an intense nutty aroma. Cool completely.
Step 3. Making the filling.
Grind the cooled almonds in a blender or meat grinder into fine crumbs — not flour, but so that tiny pieces around 1 mm in size can still be felt. Mix with the sugar, ground cardamom, and vanilla sugar. Stir thoroughly. Sign of readiness: the mixture is even and holds its shape slightly when squeezed in your fist, thanks to the almonds’ natural oiliness.
Step 4. Shaping the shekerbura.
Punch down the risen dough and divide it into balls weighing 35–40 g each, about the size of a large walnut. Roll each ball with a rolling pin into an oval 2–3 mm thick and roughly 12×8 cm in size. Place a heaping 1.5 tbsp of filling on one half of the oval, leaving 1 cm clear around the edge. Cover with the other half of the dough and pinch the edge tightly closed, pressing with your fingers. Fold the pinched edge inward to form a neat crescent. Sign of readiness: the seam is tight and free of cracks, and the filling does not spill out.
Step 5. Creating the pattern.
Take pastry pincers, tweezers, or the blunt side of a knife. Create a pattern on the surface of each shekerbura: gently pinch the dough with the pincers to form rows of diagonal lines intersecting in a diamond-shaped ornament. The traditional design is a “wheat ear” or “herringbone.” Work carefully, without piercing the dough. If you do not have pincers, use a fork — draw parallel lines with the tines at a 45° angle, then cross them with perpendicular lines. Sign of readiness: the surface bears a clear raised pattern around 1 mm deep.
Step 6. Baking.
Preheat the oven to 180 °C (top and bottom heat). Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Arrange the shekerburas 2 cm apart. Brush the surface of each with beaten egg yolk using a pastry brush — apply a thin layer so you do not flood the pattern. Bake for 20–25 minutes on the middle rack of the oven. Sign of readiness: the shekerburas have taken on a rich golden-amber color, the pattern stands out clearly, and the bottoms are dry and lightly browned.
Step 7. Cooling and serving.
Remove the baking tray and leave the shekerburas on it for 5 minutes — they are still fragile. Then carefully transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely, for 15–20 minutes. Serve on a beautiful platter, arranging the crescents in a fan. Shekerbura pairs perfectly with strong black tea served in an armudu, a pear-shaped glass. It keeps in a sealed container for up to 7 days without losing its crisp texture.
💡 Fact: Shekerbura is an essential part of the Novruz holiday — the Azerbaijani New Year, celebrated on March 21. Its crescent shape symbolizes renewal and the beginning of a new lunar cycle. Every Azerbaijani family has its own inherited pattern for decorating shekerbura, passed down from generation to generation and serving as a kind of signature of the lady of the house.