Today we embark on a gastronomic journey through Turkey—a country where East meets West not just in architecture, but on the plate. We’ll prepare dishes Turks have eaten since childhood, the ones they serve to their most honored guests.
🍆 Hünkar Beğendi (Sultan’s Delight)
The legendary dish of Ottoman sultans: velvety roasted eggplant purée with béchamel and cheese, topped with braised lamb or beef in tomato sauce. The texture—silken. The flavor—smoky, creamy, with a hint of tang from the tomatoes.
Ingredients:
For the eggplant purée:
• Large eggplants – 4 (about 1 kg)
• Butter – 50 g
• All-purpose flour – 2 tbsp
• Whole milk (3.2% fat) – 250 ml
• Kashkaval cheese (or caciocavallo, mozzarella) – 150 g, grated
• Salt – to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper – a pinch
For the meat:
• Lamb or beef (tender cut) – 600 g
• Yellow onion – 2 medium
• Ripe tomatoes – 3 (or 200 ml tomato purée)
• Tomato paste – 1 tbsp
• Olive oil – 3 tbsp
• Sweet paprika – 1 tsp
• Garlic – 2 cloves
• Salt, black pepper – to taste
• Water or broth – 200 ml
Instructions:
Step 1. Roasting the eggplants
Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F). Wash the eggplants, pierce each with a fork in 5-6 places (so they don’t burst). Place on a foil-lined baking sheet. Roast for 40-50 minutes, flipping every 15 minutes. Doneness: the skin is charred and wrinkled, the flesh yields under pressure, the eggplant is soft as a pillow. Remove, wrap in foil or cover with a bowl for 10 minutes—this makes the skin easy to peel.
Step 2. Preparing the meat
While the eggplants roast, cut the meat into 2×2 cm cubes. Slice the onion into 3-4 mm half-rings. Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water, peel, and dice the flesh into 1 cm cubes. Heat the olive oil in a deep skillet or pot over high heat. Add the meat in a single layer, sear until browned on all sides (4-5 minutes). Transfer the meat to a bowl.
Step 3. Braising the meat in sauce
In the same skillet over medium heat, sauté the onion until soft and lightly golden (5-6 minutes). Add the minced garlic, paprika, and tomato paste—sauté for 1 minute, stirring. Return the meat, add the diced tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Pour in the water or broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1.5-2 hours (1.5 hours for lamb, 2 hours for beef). Doneness: the meat falls apart at the touch of a fork, the sauce has thickened and turned a rich red-brown.
Step 4. Preparing the eggplant purée
Peel the cooled eggplants—the skin should come off in whole sheets. Transfer the flesh to a colander for 5-7 minutes to drain excess liquid. Then blend or mash with a fork until smooth. Important: no lumps should remain. The texture should be like a very thick smoothie.
Step 5. Making the béchamel with eggplant
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour, whisking constantly, and cook for 2 minutes—the flour should foam but not brown. Slowly pour in the milk, whisking continuously to avoid lumps. Cook for 3-4 minutes until thickened—the sauce should coat the back of a spoon. Add the eggplant purée and mix. Simmer on low heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly.
Step 6. Finishing the eggplant purée
Remove from heat. Gradually stir in the grated cheese—it should melt completely, creating a silky texture. Season with salt and pepper. The consistency should be like thick cream soup—holds its shape but spreads on the plate. If too thick, add 2-3 tbsp of hot milk.
Step 7. Serving
Spoon the eggplant purée onto a warm plate, forming a mound with a small well in the center. Fill the well and top with the braised meat and sauce. Serve immediately while the purée is hot and creamy. Doneness: the contrast of textures—silken purée and tender, falling-apart meat; the aroma of smoky eggplant and spiced tomato sauce.
💡 Fact: The name Hünkar Beğendi literally means "The Sultan was pleased." Legend has it the dish was created for Sultan Murad IV in the 17th century, and he was so delighted he ordered the recipe recorded in the palace books.
🐟 Balık Ekmek (Fish Sandwich)
Istanbul’s iconic street food: fried mackerel in crispy baguette with onion, lettuce, and lemon. Simplicity bordering on genius—crispy fish skin, juicy flesh, the tang of lemon, and the freshness of vegetables create the perfect balance.
Ingredients:
• Fresh (or frozen) mackerel – 4 medium fish (fillets)
• Baguette or Turkish bread (or ciabatta) – 4 portions, 15-20 cm each
• Red onion – 1 large
• Lettuce (iceberg or romaine) – 4 leaves
• Lemon – 2
• Coarse sea salt – 1 tsp
• Vegetable oil for frying – 3 tbsp
• Freshly ground black pepper – to taste
Optional:
• Parsley – a small bunch
• Tomatoes – 2
Instructions:
Step 1. Preparing the fish
If using whole mackerel: remove the head, gut, and rinse under cold water. Cut along the spine, remove the backbone and large bones, yielding two skin-on fillets. Use tweezers to pull out small bones (run your fingers against the grain—you’ll feel them). If using pre-cut fillets, just check for bones. Pat the fillets completely dry with paper towels—this is critical for a crispy crust.
Step 2. Preparing the vegetables and bread
Thinly slice the red onion into 1-2 mm half-rings—use a sharp knife or mandoline. Soak in cold water for 10 minutes to remove bitterness, then drain and pat dry. Wash and dry the lettuce, tear into 4-5 cm pieces. Cut the lemon into 8 wedges. Slice the baguette lengthwise, but not all the way through—it should form a "boat." Lightly toast the bread cut-side down in a dry pan for 30 seconds—it’ll become slightly crisp.
Step 3. Salting the fish
Season the mackerel fillets with salt and pepper on both sides. Drizzle with juice from half a lemon. Let sit at room temperature for 5-7 minutes—the salt will draw out moisture, creating droplets on the surface. Before frying, pat the fillets dry again with paper towels.
Step 4. Frying the fish (critical step)
Heat a skillet (preferably cast iron or heavy-bottomed) over high heat for 2-3 minutes. Add the oil and let it heat until it just starts to smoke. Place the fillets skin-side down. IMPORTANT: don’t move the fish for the first 2 minutes—it’ll stick and tear. Fry for 3-4 minutes. Doneness for the first side: the skin is dark golden with crispy edges, the flesh along the sides has turned white 2/3 of the way up. Carefully flip with a spatula. Fry the second side for 2-3 minutes.
Step 5. Checking fish doneness
Test with a fork: the flesh should flake easily into juicy white layers, but not be dry. A slightly translucent center is acceptable (mackerel is tastier slightly underdone than overcooked). Remove from heat, drizzle with juice from a quarter lemon.
Step 6. Assembling the balık ekmek
Place a lettuce leaf on the bottom half of the baguette. Top with the mackerel fillet (if it’s large, cut it in half lengthwise). Generously add the red onion—don’t skimp, it contrasts the fatty fish. If using tomatoes, slice them thinly and add now. Sprinkle with chopped parsley (optional). Squeeze the juice from another lemon wedge over the fish.
Step 7. Final assembly and serving
Cover with the top half of the baguette, press lightly with your hands—the fish juices should soak into the bread. Wrap in paper or parchment (like real street food)—this makes it easier to eat and keeps the juices from dripping. Serve immediately with extra lemon wedges. Doneness: the bread is crispy outside but soaked with juices inside; the fish is hot, juicy, with a contrast of crispy skin and tender flesh; every bite is a balance of fatty, tangy, spicy, and fresh.
💡 Fact: Balık ekmek was born on fishing boats near the Galata Bridge in Istanbul in the 1950s. Fishermen fried freshly caught mackerel right on their boats and sold it to passersby. Today, it’s a symbol of Istanbul on par with Hagia Sophia—every Turk will tell you the real balık ekmek can only be found at the Galata Bridge.
🧀 Künefe (Künefe)
The queen of Turkish desserts: crispy kadaif dough threads baked with unsalted cheese, drizzled with sweet syrup, and sprinkled with pistachios. The contrast of hot, stretchy cheese and crunchy caramelized dough—it’s a textural fireworks display.
Ingredients:
For the künefe:
• Kadaif dough (kataifi) – 500 g
• Unsalted, stretchy cheese (mozzarella or soaked sulguni) – 400 g
• Clarified butter – 150 g
• Shelled unsalted pistachios – 50 g for garnish
For the syrup:
• Sugar – 400 g
• Water – 250 ml
• Lemon juice – 1 tbsp
• Rose water (optional) – 1 tsp
Instructions:
Step 1. Making the syrup (do this first!)
In a saucepan, mix the sugar and water. Place over medium heat, bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar fully dissolves. Once boiling, reduce the heat to low, add the lemon juice. Simmer for 10-12 minutes without stirring. Doneness: the syrup has thickened; when dropped onto a cold plate, it doesn’t spread instantly but holds its shape for 2-3 seconds. Remove from heat, add the rose water (if using). Let cool completely to room temperature—this is critical! Hot syrup poured over hot künefe won’t absorb properly.
Step 2. Preparing the cheese
If using mozzarella, simply grate it coarsely and let excess moisture drain in a colander for 10 minutes. If using sulguni or another salty cheese, cut into chunks, soak in cold water for 2-3 hours, changing the water every hour (the cheese should lose almost all its salt). Then grate. Pat the grated cheese dry with paper towels—excess moisture will make the künefe soggy.
Step 3. Preparing the kadaif dough
Remove the kadaif dough from its packaging—it looks like a ball of thin threads (as fine as hair). Tear it apart by hand into small pieces 2-3 cm long—it should resemble a fluffy bird’s nest. Important: don’t leave long strands, or the dough will bake unevenly. Melt the butter and let it cool for 2 minutes. Pour the butter over the dough, mix thoroughly with your hands, kneading so every thread is coated. The mass should become glossy and slightly sticky.
Step 4. Shaping the künefe
Use a round baking dish 26-28 cm in diameter (or individual molds 12-15 cm). Divide the dough into two unequal parts: 60% and 40%. Evenly spread the larger portion on the bottom of the dish, pressing down with your hands or the bottom of a glass—the layer should be dense, about 1 cm thick, with no gaps. Spread all the grated cheese in an even layer, leaving a 1 cm border. Cover with the remaining dough, press down, and seal the edges to trap the cheese inside.
Step 5. Baking (critical step)
Preheat the oven to 200°C (390°F) (top and bottom heat, no convection). Place the dish on the middle rack. Bake for 25-30 minutes. After 15 minutes, check: the top should start to golden. If it browns too quickly, cover with foil. Doneness: the top crust is a rich golden-brown, the edges are caramelized and dark, the kitchen smells of melted butter and caramel. Remove and let stand for 2 minutes.
Step 6. Flipping and adding the syrup
Cover the dish with a large flat plate or serving platter. In one confident motion, flip the dish and plate together—the künefe should slide out. If it sticks, run a knife around the edges. Now the bottom (also golden) side is on top. IMMEDIATELY, while the künefe is hot, slowly pour the cold syrup over it—pour evenly so the syrup absorbs rather than runs off. Use all the syrup. You’ll hear a sizzle—that’s good, the dough is soaking up the syrup.
Step 7. Garnishing and serving
Chop the pistachios with a knife into small crumbs (not powder—keep pieces the size of rice grains). Generously sprinkle the künefe with pistachios, covering the entire surface. Serve immediately while hot—cut into portions right at the table. Doneness: the top is crispy and glistening with syrup; when cut, you’ll see strands of cheese stretching between the pieces; the aroma of caramel and butter. The contrast of textures: crispy dough on the outside, stretchy hot cheese inside, the sweetness of the syrup, and the nutty note of pistachios.
💡 Fact: Künefe is a dessert with a thousand-year history, its roots tracing back to the Umayyad Caliphate in the 10th century. The city of Antakya (ancient Antioch) in southern Turkey is considered the birthplace of künefe, and locals insist that only there is the "real" künefe made. Traditionally, it’s served on copper trays and eaten hot—cooled künefe loses its magic.